Automotive products are generally easier to remove when they are fresh and haven’t fully cured. For paint products the best way to remove is with 2K thinners but there are some things to consider. If you are trying to remove paint overspray from fresh paint or TPA / 1K coatings and some plastics, this method will not work due to solvent attack. We strongly recommend if using this method you try a small amount in an inconspicuous area to ensure there is no damage caused to the coating beneath by using this option. If the coating does mark or soften, a milder solvent like a degreaser may be tried, with the same method. Another option would be to use a coarse compound polish and cloth or mechanical polisher to remove .You will need to be conscious of not burning through the coating you are trying to remove the contamination from.
For cleaning overspray, the quicker you remove it the easier it will be. 2k thinners will remove light overspray. Do not uses thinners to remove RAPTOR from TPA/ 1K coatings as it will soften the coating. A coarse compound and mechanical polisher would also remove light overspray from OEM paint work but care must be taken not to burn through the coating underneath. For RAPTOR overspray over RAPTOR, this will be more difficult to remove. For best result, abrade the area and re-coat. Overspray on glass can be removed with a glass blade or Stanley blade when wearing the correct PPE.
As long as the light coloured application of RAPTOR is sprayed to full opacity, then the dark tone of the epoxy primer will not be an issue. You may see a slight off colour after the first coat of RAPTOR, but this will disappear after the second coat is applied. This is true even with White RAPTOR.
The air sucked through a compressor can be quite damp and if you are painting in a humid area this can have a negative effect on the performance of the paint. Most compressors that can reach a suitable pressure will have an internal filter that takes out water from the inlet air. If humidity is high then this is critical, whilst if it is low then it is less important. As best practice and to avoid the risk we always recommend use of a compressor with a water filter.
A 6 HP compressor that generates 10 bar line pressure should provide sufficient air supply, but is dependent on the application equipment / gun (Schutz type or gravity feed HVLP) used to apply the RAPTOR.
Yes, RAPTOR can be used for both.
Yes, RAPTOR can be baked for 30 minutes at 60°C. Baking will speed up the initial drying but not the through cure. It is still recommended waiting 7 days for heavy duty use and 72 hours before exposure to water.
It is not recommended for application below 5C. When RAPTOR is applied at the lower temperatures, the dry and cure time is significantly extended.
One RAPTOR 4L Kit will cover approximately 12 sq metres at recommended film build (3 sq metres / litre).
The average thickness for RAPTOR is 200-250 µmper coat. Applying 2 medium coats of RAPTOR is recommended. Measurements are approximate and are dependent on the application method.
Do not allow RAPTOR to come in contact with water for at least 72 hours. If RAPTOR does come in contact with water within the first 72 hours, to fix: Make sure the surface is fully dry Abrade the surface using UP0410 or similar Clean with Degreaser Mask areas that does not require application Blow with compressed air Tack cloth area Re-apply
RAPTOR is a coating made to last, so it is difficult to remove once cured. Once RAPTOR is cured, remove by sanding it off with P80 grit sandpaper either down to the original substrate or to bare metal. Then, respray the surface with another coating, like OEM paint colours.
Cured RAPTOR can easily be touched up. Just clean the surface, sand and featheredge a few inches into the surrounding area, re-clean, and mix and apply as usual. No need to prime again unless you sand down to bare metal. Remember, if it's been more than 5 hours since the last coat of RAPTOR has been applied, allow RAPTOR to cure for 24 hours, then lightly abrade and apply additional coat(s).
RAPTOR can generally be re-coated after 24 hours. Scuff it with a red scuff pad, clean with wax and grease remover, apply the next coat of RAPTOR.
The recommended RAPTOR application is 2-3 coats with a 60 minute flash time between coats. If further build is needed, it is recommended to carry this out in several applications. For instance, apply the first 2-3 coats, bake or allow 24-hours to dry and then apply another 2-3 coats, etc. The key is to allow as much solvent to evaporate from each layer before adding subsequent layers. If the process is carried out too fast, RAPTOR may remain soft and take longer to fully cure.
Wait between 60-90 minutes after applying your final coat of RAPTOR before removing the tape.
Typically, 3-4 bar is recommended. Higher or lower bar can also be used, but it’s recommended you spray a test panel first to make sure the texture is what you’re looking for.
Depending on the texture desired, once reduced, RAPTOR can generally be applied with a nozzle set from about a 1.4 up to a 2.0. Once it is thinned to a maximum of 20% it is possible to spray it through a smaller nozzle set (1.2 - 1.3) however, the film build will be pretty thin and it may not have the same chip resistance that it does when applied with a larger nozzle set. In reality, it all depends on the look, finish and texture that you want to achieve.
Use a coarse textured foam roller (such as one used for heavy textured coatings) for the best finish, but other types of rollers can be used depending on the final texture desired.
Applying RAPTOR with a roller will produce very good textures. Care must be taken when applying with a roller because softness will occur if RAPTOR is applied too thickly. Make sure that a medium coat is applied with the roller so that the RAPTOR can cure and harden so scratch resistance will still be maintained.
U-POL has not tested RAPTOR on rubber; however many flexible vehicle parts are actually plastics, like TPO, EDPM or PP.
Ferrous chloride is a salt and will readily absorb moisture. Most coatings over salts may suffer from early blistering and/or corrosion of the substrate. It is not recommended that RAPTOR be used in this situation. Strip away the ferrous chloride either chemically or mechanically, and then degrease the substrate. Clean the surface before applying RAPTOR.
Clean the surface with wax and grease remover and lightly sand with P180 grit sandpaper before applying RAPTOR.
Follow the epoxy primer manufacturer’s recommendations for top coating. Generally, after primer is dry / cured, sand surface with P280-P360 grit sandpaper, or whatever grit recommended by the manufacturer for top coat application, blow off, and re-clean if necessary before applying RAPTOR.
Clean the surface with wax and grease remover and scuff the surface with red / maroon scuff pad. Re-clean the surface before applying RAPTOR.
Yes, it can be applied to both solvent and water borne basecoat. Follow basecoat manufacturer’s drying times prior to over coating.
Scuff the surface with P100-P120 grit sand paper and degreased before applying RAPTOR. An adhesion promoter, like RAPTOR Adhesion Promoter can be used in hard to reach areas and for optimum adhesion.
As long as the concrete is clean, dry, and free of oil, you can apply RAPTOR directly to concrete. If concrete is sealed, a rotary floor sander can be used to abrade surface. Any petroleum based surface contaminates should first be cleaned with a suitable cleaning solution to neutralise the contamination.
Blow off the surface to remove dust. Light sanding is “OK” but generally RAPTOR can be directly applied to wood and plywood substrates.
If the wood has been pre-treated or painted, clean the wood of any contaminants. If cleaned with water, allow to dry first. Lightly sand any painted areas. Once dry, apply RAPTOR.
RAPTOR can be used on most plastic without much preparation. Abrade the plastic with P180-P240 grit sand paper or red scotch and then apply an adhesion promoter, like GRIP#4 (GRIP/AL). Wait about 20 minutes before applying RAPTOR.
Yes, RAPTOR can be applied to both steel and alloy wheels. The preparation is as follows: sand with P80-P180 grit, use ACID#8 Acid Etch Primer (ACID/AL) or epoxy primer over exposed bare metal, and apply.
The durability of RAPTOR is strongly linked to its high film build. By adding reducer the film build will decrease and therefore some of its durability characteristics will decrease, although only slightly.
Clean the aluminium with a wax and grease remover and sand with P180 grit sandpaper. Apply one to two coats of ACID#8 Acid Etch Primer (ACID/AL) and use GRIP#4 Universal Adhesion Promoter (GRIP/AL) for hard to reach areas. Allow to dry 20 minutes before applying RAPTOR.
Reasonably good results can be obtained if one of the following is used, but note that chrome is not an "approved" substrate: For radiator grills: Sand the surface as well as possible, apply two coats of GRIP#4 (GRIP/AL), allow to dry then apply RAPTOR. For more demanding substrates, such as bumpers: Sand the surface as well as possible, apply epoxy primer (following primers guidelines), then apply RAPTOR.
Abrade surface with P80-P180 grit sandpaper and apply 1-2 coats of ACID#8 Acid Etch Primer (ACID/AL). Allow to dry for 15-20 minutes before applying RAPTOR. If ACID#8 is not available, any 2K DTM or Epoxy Primer can be used to prime bare metal (follow top coat directions for primer).
Yes, RAPTOR can be thinned up to 20%. When thinning RAPTOR, use a urethane based thinner.
A. Volume - 3 parts RAPTOR – 1 part hardener – 10% colour. B. 100g RAPTOR - 30g hardener and - up to 10g tint. Refer to online technical datasheet for additional quantities.
RAPTOR can be topcoated, but generally, it's not needed. RAPTOR dries to a semi-gloss/eggshell finish, which most people find to be plenty of gloss. Clearcoats do not have the same level of durability as RAPTOR and are more likely to chip under heavy duty use. Lightly abrade fully cured RAPTOR with a grey scuff pad. U-POL 2K clearcoats use the same resin system as RAPTOR so U-POL clearcoats will give the best results.
Raptor can be overpainted with Raptor and most modern paint systems. When overpainting prepare the surface as follows; Raptor should be allowed to dry for 24-hours. Abrade with a fine abrasive pad to create a matte surface. Clean and degrease. The surface is ready to paint.
There are two ways to get a smoother finish. 1). Turn up the pressure on the gun. 2). Add thinner as per the technical datasheet instructions. For instance, you could use an HVLP gravity fed gun with a 1.6-2.0mm nozzle set up. Add 15% urethane reducer when mixing RAPTOR. Set your gun at 2 bar. At a distance of about 15cm, spray the first coat as an even wet coat. After flashing, reduce the pressure and material flow to achieve a fine mist for the second coat.
Mix RAPTOR Traction – Slip-Resistant Additive (RLTR/SM) into the final coat before applying for a textured grip finish. RAPTOR Traction will only work through a standard application gun.
On its own, RAPTOR is not skid resistant, or non-slip. For a non-skid surface on walkways, mix RAPTOR Anti-Slip-Additive (RLTR/SM) into to the final coat before applying.
RAPTOR dries as a hard satin gloss finish. It won’t attract dirt and is easy to clean.
Most paint manufacturers provide proprietary matting agents that are used in other 2K products, and these are suitable for use in RAPTOR. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations. Please note this may reduce RAPTOR’s flexibility.